Friday, 28 November 2014

28 November 2014. Key sights of Luang Prabang

I have been debating where to go between my stay in Vientiane, ending round 7 December and getting to Hong Kong on the 16th. One possibility was a return to Hanoi, which really attracted me but for the fact that I'd also like to spend more time in the jungles of Laos. Anyway, at breakfast I read that there is a Vietnam consulate in Luang Prabang and so the ability to cut through the visa hassle swung the deal for me. I trotted off to the consulate after breakfast and handed over my passport until Monday - along with $70.

The road to the consulate includes Wat Visounnarath - a beautiful old temple originating from the 16th century but restored in the 19th after fire. It included collections of buddhas with the bring rain (both arms straight down) and be peaceful (both palms facing out) positions.












Just down the road is a rather distinctive, old bridge, described in one guide as communistic. Crossing it is not for those with vertigo, as you look down through the slatted path at the river below. It does, however, give great river views and getting to the other side brings one definitely out of the tourist zone. On the way, I came across a thrill-seeking dog, riding pillion - all of its own volition; I witnessed it harassing the driver and jumping up to its place!












In the afternoon I visited Wat Xieng Thong. This is a beautiful building, apparently restored with US money. The roof of the main building is in a distinct - and apparently Laotian - style.















Then it was up Mount Phousi. The staircase seems a bit endless - just as you think it's done, there are another 50 stairs round the corner! Anyway, the climb is well worth it for the views. The only downside is that the sunset experience is very much on the tourist carte and so, even an hour beforehand, the top is heaving with people. I decided to give it a miss. The reclining Buddha near the top is very striking and quite easily missed.









Walking along the bank of the Mekong is lovely, even in the town. The river itself looks very clean and flows along in its timeless way. There are plenty of people offering boat trips and these look to be nice boats that fit the peaceful environment. The town of Luang Prabang itself is an oddity. It is undoubtedly picturesque and unspoilt architecturally. However, it has a slight Disney quality to it. It is completely dominated by tourism, with plenty of swanky hotels and restaurants with a sort of Paris-in-the-jungle feel.
Unlike Chiang Mai, it's hard to go anywhere that one could kid oneself as being local - or when one does, I felt slightly out of place compared to Chiang Mai's non-Farang establishments.










Anyway, we'll see how my feelings evolve. It's certainly a nice place to hang out for a week!

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